20 mm Edge Hang

20 mm Edge Hang

Fingers grip a 20 mm edge.

Level
Advanced
Equipment
Hangboard
Movement
Dead hang · Hanging
Tracks
Duration

Works

  • Forearms
  • Lats
  • Shoulders
  • Traps
  • Back

How to do it

  1. Stand under the fingerboard with feet flat on the floor.
  2. Grip the 20 mm edge with an open or half-crimp hand position.
  3. Engage your shoulders by pulling them down and back.
  4. Lift your feet slightly to load weight onto your fingers.
  5. Hold the position statically for the prescribed duration.
  6. Lower your feet gently to release the tension.

Common mistakes

  • Shrugging shoulders up towards the ears.
  • Hyperextending the elbows while hanging.
  • Using a full crimp on a training edge.
  • Jerking the body to initiate the hang.

Safety

Warm up your fingers on larger edges before loading this edge.

Stop immediately if you feel sharp pain in the finger pulleys.

Avoid this movement if you have recent finger tendon injuries.

Tips

  • Keep wrists straight and aligned with the forearms.
  • Breathe steadily instead of holding your breath.
  • Focus tension on the finger pads, not the joints.

Details

Base movement
Dead hang
Arms
Both
Hand orientation
Pronated (palms down / away)
Body position
Hanging
Load type
Isometric hold

Variations

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